After some delay in flight from Gatwick, we extended our crushed limbs and took a taxi (€25) from Kos airport to the Marina in Kos, arriving about 7.30 am local time. The marina information office was open, and stored our bags at a cost of €1 while we breakfasted at the Marina café. Spetses (hereafter referred to as Betsy) had been brought up from Rhodes and was ready for us to go aboard. While the checks were carried out, we shopped at the Marina supermarket which is well stocked and has a marvellous salesman. We stocked up with tins of cheese and an excess of jars of roast peppers, which turned out to be delicious. After lunch on deck, and when Pandora was finally handed over, we set sail for Pserimos. After approximately 2 hours, we moored stern-on to the concrete pier on the western side of Avlakia harbour, inside the breakwater. We had to drop the anchor almost at its full reach out to get a grip. Much assistance was provided by the “irradiated incredible hulk”, in whose taverna we sampled a few glasses before dinner. The Rough Guide to the Greek Islands recommended Taverna Manola, and having strolled the beach to reach it, (a most unlikely looking venue) we were provided with an exceptional feast, with stuffed plums and our first ouzos thrown in by our ex-ship’s engineer host, who had been to Dublin during the 1974 bombings. The octopus legs in vinegar starter was outstanding!
After an early morning swim for the skipper and mate, we set off around the western end of Pserimos and up towards Kalymnos. We motored as the wind was strong, and head on. We went two thirds of the way up the eastern side of the island, and dropped anchor in the isolated inlet of Paleonisos. Ray, Jenny and Brendan swam to the beach, where Jenny (or was it the goats?) was serenaded with Pan pipes. After lunch, we headed north again to Pandelli on Leros. Some dolphins accompanied us briefly on the way. We moored alongside the pier on the eastern side of the harbour. If we had been later, we would have had to anchor in the bay. Due to some ‘excitement’ during the process, a fender controller was appointed for subsequent moorings! The castle and row of windmills on the hill demanded investigation, so Betsy’s crew set out to explore. A kindly ice-cream vendor arranged for Ray to be abducted by car as she felt the 5 minute walk to the ATM was too much for him. Despite her protestations, the rest of us walked to the castle, a steep, but zigzagging road with fantastic views. Setting a pattern for future visits to tourist attractions, the castle was closed during Monday afternoons! Following showers (€3!) at the taverna at the end of the pier, we enjoyed the most expensive meal of the holiday in Mezedopoleio Dimitris on the far side of the harbour, where they saw us coming. (N.B. Don’t let them order for you without checking the prices!) Shots of something like ouzo appeared and even Jenny downed it in one go leaving her hoarse for the rest of the trip!
Ray had trouble getting money from the ATM, and the departure was delayed while the striking bank officials of Greece eventually contacted VISA to sort it out. We set out for Lipsi, again motoring as the wind was still in the North. The inexperienced helms people avoided shifts due to very heavy seas. We moored alongside a low pontoon on the western side of the harbour, just inside the ferry terminal(Note:- Drop the fenders down to tip the water and make sure the ropeman can jump). Martin tried to pay mooring fees, but was told by the harbour police to come back in the morning, as it was siesta time. The crew dispersed to explore the town and surrounding hills, including the 11 or 12 blue domed churches. A good swimming beach was found just over the hill to the west of the harbour, where John discussed agricultural matters with the donkeys and the only cows we saw on the trip. The men who were to connect us to the water and electricity, which are on the pontoon, never arrived. Pandora booked us in to the nearby Yiannis taverna for dinner - a good meal in a beautiful setting. Much to the girls disappointment, the navy, having put on an incredible display of mooring skills, departed before the night clubs opened.
Ray bought bread in the town, and came back with a gift of a baked egg. Before setting off, Martin paid the ridiculous overnight mooring cost of 85 cent to the harbour police! We experienced heavy seas, and northerly force six winds, during the crossing to Patmos, the island of St. John the Theologian. Two tall ships were anchored in the approach to Skala harbour. Brian (or was it Brendan?), with minor assistance from Jenny, demonstrated to onlookers on these ships the manoeuvrability of Betsy by performing a 360 beneath their sterns. We docked at 12 noon, stern-on, against the concrete quay on the southern side of the inner-most section of the harbour, beyond the ferry port and town beach. The half way mark had been reached! Water from a friendly tanker man was provided. (Note: the fellows on the quay directing where you are to moor are not police – they just have a good eye for business selling water). Very hot indeed, but after lunch the pull of the monastery on John was so great that the entire company agreed to don appropriate garb (long trousers for men, skirts/dresses and covered arms for girls) and walk to the top of the distant, high hill! After 200 yards, a bus proved a more acceptable way up, and the kindly driver accepted our fares despite the fact that the monastery is closed Mon, Wed, and Fri afternoons. The walk down an ancient stone path back to Skala provided spectacular views, and was followed by swims or siestas. A disappointing meal at Loukas Restaurant (chosen by Pandora’s crew of course!) was poor in both presentation and service.
An early start allowed for a taxi trip to the monastery where John was finally admitted. As no guides were available, the guard in the chapel provided an excellent tour, putting us to shame with his breadth of knowledge. The art work and icons, dating from before the 14th century in some cases, were well worth the effort of two trips. Walking back down the stone path we visited the Cave of the Apocalypse in which St. John received the Book of Revelations. Having motored up to Patmos against a strong northerly wind, we were looking forward to running back down south before it. However, the wind had died, so we had to motor again! After lunch in beautiful Grikos Bay, which had strange ancient cliff dwellings cut into the soft rock on a promontory, the men tore themselves away from the effects of the siren on the beach, and we motored on to Lakki on the western side of Leros. Arriving at 4.30 pm, we approached the marina on the northern side of the harbour, where helpful marina staff assisted us in picking up the line to a stern-on fixed mooring. It was very hot and sticky, with no breeze at all. Showers and loos in very clean facilities on the marina were welcome. Restaurants were hard to find, but Barry and Marie found the “To Petrino” taverna, beside the Post Office, and having ordered baked potatoes in advance, we were treated to a fantastic meal; meat portions could easily do two people and the local dog pack that had accompanied us from the harbour polished off our left overs. This was followed by drinks at “The Winged Chicken”, where we sang “Molly Malone” during a lull in the Greek music. Barry and Brendan had a cracking time with the LARGER than life host, who kept us amused with exploding bottle openers and biros. (N.B. His lamb’s liver offering is only for those with a strong stomach!)
Left at 9 am – again motoring, but did get a short sail on calm seas. Stopped for lunch around 12 noon in the lovely inlet of Vlihadia on the south side of Kalymnos. The pilot book noted that securing the anchor could be difficult, as Barry’s 9 attempts (according to Brian) proved. (We only took one attempt according to Brian). Saundra swam to the beach and back with Jenny, Ray and Martin. Sailed on to Rina, at the end of Vathys valley on the east side of the island, arriving at 3.30 pm. The most picturesque of our moorings! Moored stern-on, ~30 metres up from the end of the jetty on the southern side of the inlet, but on advice of neighbours, a diver was sent down and found that the rudder was less than a foot off the bottom. Moved to moor stern-on at the end of the pier facing out to sea, beside the beach. Thus Marie avoided the use of the duck, Brendan having proved it unstable. The diver checked the anchor and found it was on its side and not holding. Martin, the real diver, had to go down and turn it the right way up. A celebratory diving display took place from the bow, caught on camera by one of the 3 B fellas. Scouts were sent out and Barry picked the Restaurant Galini run by an Australian Greek who wooed him with free beer. We did get potatoes and carrots, but their arrival was erratic. The staff were horrified when Ray refused to eat the fish head proffered as his main course, but the 25 cats and one dog were delighted to help out, having been policed during the meal by initially a broomstick and then the “Catman” with his powerful water pistol. “Porto Vathys” at the end of the pier provided a friendlier drinking atmosphere and would have been a better choice for the meal. Brendan watched as they barbequed lobster, but he was less proficient than the cats at getting scraps.
Prior to departing, Barry and Ray had to respond to myriad advice from neighbours when someone snagged Pandora’s anchor chain, both skippers having scarpered! Sadness at leaving our last anchorage was dimmed by finding wind. The novices were proud to handle the boat under sail in 20 knot wind, making 8 knots! (Much needed support from Saundra and Martin was appreciated!) A change in plan saw us head off to Pserimos. Unable to raise Pandora on the radio (again!), we resorted to mobile phones to ensure their company for lunch off a small beach to the east of Avlakia where power cables come ashore – good anchorage on sandy bottom. Beautiful clear waters enticed us in for a last swim followed by a peaceful lunch. Wash from a passing ferry gently lapped the shore …preceding a tsunami that resulted in Brendan and Ray testing their frisbee skills on catching plates flying in the galley. Saundra managed to save the wine but Martin and Jenny had their feet washed in beer.
Arrived back under sail to Kos at about 4 pm, where the fuel station was eventually located to left outside the harbour. (Shady parking for cars provided under large catamaran). We took on nearly 50% more fuel than Pandora! A pilot in a rib met us at the entrance to the harbour, and nudged us in to a tight stern-on berth with fixed mooring line. Following inspection, we were relieved to pass muster. Brendan, Ronnie, Ray, and Martin’s negotiating skills eventually resulted in us getting a €25 refund from the charter agent for the additional diesel. (Note: Might be best to check the fuel by trying to add more diesel at the fuel station before initial departure on next trip)
“Barbas” psistaria, fairly near the marina, chosen by Jenny, provided a reasonably good final meal with copious ouzo to see us off. Very hot indeed, and fans would have been a nice touch! Mossies were about, but Aine’s candle and spray kept them at bay. Taxis at 3:15 am brought us to the airport, and 4 hours of queuing. Baggage delays in Gatwick resulted in chaos over flights home, with Ryan Air’s brusqueness being out-smarted by Lee Xuan’s patience and kindness.
Jenny and Marie, with technical adjustments by Ray
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